Drinking Terere

To underscore the significance of tereré for new trainees, CHP makes it the subject of your very first day of cultural training here in Paraguay. When I sat down that first day and saw our agenda, I remember thinking that an entire morning sounded like a long time to learn about a drink. At the end of the lesson, however, it was clear that we would all need much more time to fully understand the complexities of the preparation and consumption of this ubiquitous beverage.

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My Machete

Remember how I used to always get hassled by that gang of geese back in Guarambare? The ones that always squawked at me as I passed by their turf on the way to training everyday? They never attacked me, although on more than one occasion they told me that if I didn’t bring them a loaf of bread, they would rough me up. I did my best to appease them, and would give them pieces of my breakfast the way a little kid coughs up his milk money to the neighborhood bully. Even with these tributes, I never felt safe. I guess I always figured if I was to ever going to be mugged in this country, it was going to be by a goose.

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I had previously posted an address for any mail you wanted to send to me. That address is in Asuncion, and while I can still get mail at my box there in the capital, I only make it down there about once a month. Some volunteers in the area around my site have a caja (box) that we rent out at the post office:

Jonathan Garro
Caja 1
Concepcion, Paraguay
South America

Reminder: Don’t send nice stuff. People here are curious about boxes that say “United States.” I like to get post cards!

Also, I had previously posted my cell phone number, but some people have had trouble getting through. Here is the complete number that you would dial from the states: 0 011 595 971 233 673. Use a calling card to make sure AT&T doesn’t clear out your wallet on your next bill. Update: After my mugging, PC got me a new phone, with which I am able to use the same number.

PS: To keep things simple out there in the internets, I have parked another URL on my server. Now if you type www.gonesouth.org into your browser, you’ll end up here too. No worries if you fear change: www.skipperstyle.com will still work as always. This just adds the choice. Technology is really something, isn’t it?

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Lunch Time

When the idea of joining the Peace Corps was floating around in my head years ago, I always had this image of Kevin Costner in Dances with Wolves. I pictured myself living in a hut, cut off from the world, and spending months trying to build a friendly relationship with some natives who can’t understand anything I’m saying.

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In addition to recounting my personal experiences here in Paraguay, I thought it would be nifty to dedicate a series of posts solely to the culture.

Who among us never heard a monster in the closet, saw that face outside the window, sensed that claw beneath the bed? I think for most Americans, these fears originate from scary movies, campfire stories, and older siblings just messing with you. I always convinced myself that I saw that monster that Dan Aykroyd turns into in The Twilight Zone movie. In the US, beyond the somewhat vague myth of a boogeyman, there aren’t really any monsters that large numbers of people have a shared belief in, (although the Tooth Fairy is a bit off-putting when you think about it). Most of our shared myths are for little kids, and are meant to be benevolent, like Santa. Since the people of this country have no cult classics or cruel camp counselors who are interested in scaring their campers, the original Guarani peoples seemed to have made up for this by inventing their own monsters.

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I put together a video slideshow of training a little while back, but have had a hard time finding an internet cafe here that has anything faster than a dial-up speed connection. I borrowed someone’s “chuchi” (means fancy) and much faster internet connection and just stuck it on YouTube. I would recommend clicking the “HQ” button on the bottom right of the video window, since the video will otherwise be compressed and fuzzy-looking. Video after the jump:

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George, Anita and Travis

About a month after arriving in their sites, all volunteers have what is known as a “Site Presentation,” where your APCD (Associate Peace Corps Director, for you acronym enthusiasts out there), formally presents you to your community. My presentation is the first week of June, yet I feel as though I have already met many of the community leaders and acquainted myself with various resources.

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Kat at Graduation

After three very quick months of training, our group swore in as volunteers last weekend. The end of training brought a mix of emotions for our group. The monotony of language and technical training sometimes made the time drag by. There was also a lack of independence that sometimes made us feel like we were demoted to teenagers with curfews. I didn’t actually have a curfew, but if I got back late, my family would sit me down for an uncomfortable conversation about thieves, and of course, monsters. There are a ton of myths in Paraguay related to monsters, but that is big topic that I’ll have to write about some other time.

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